CHAPTER 52
    COTTON   
XI
52-1
Subheading Note
1.  For the purposes of subheadings 5209.42 and 5211.42, the expression "denim" means fabrics of yarns of different colors, of 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including broken twill, warp faced, the warp yarns of which are of one and the same color and the weft yarns of which are unbleached, bleached, dyed grey or colored a lighter shade of the color of the warp yarns.
Additional U.S. Notes
1. Under regulations prescribed by the Secretary of the Treasury, the staple length of cotton shall be determined for all customs purposes by application of the Official Cotton Standards of the United States for length of staple, as established by the Secretary of Agriculture and in effect when the determination is to be made.
2.  For the purposes of classifying yarns of headings 5205 and 5206 the term "nm," as applied in these headings, means the number of 1,000-meter lengths of yarn in one kilogram. To determine the nm measurement of any yarn, whether single, multiple (folded) or cabled, the actual meters per kilogram shall be divided by 1,000 and the quotient thereof multiplied by the number of single yarns therein, including the single yarns used in manufacturing multiple (folded) or cabled yarns.
3. For the purposes of the woven fabrics of chapter 52:
(a)  The term "number," as applied to woven fabrics of cotton, means the average yarn number of the yarns contained therein. In computing the average yarn number, the length of the yarn is considered to be equal to the distance covered by it in the fabric in the condition as imported, with all clipped yarn being measured as if continuous and with the count being taken of the total single yarns in the fabric including the single yarns in any multiple (folded) or cabled yarns. The weight shall be taken after any excessive sizing is removed by boiling or other suitable process. Any one of the following formulas can be used to determine the average yarn number for tariff purposes--
     N = BYT/1,000, 100T/Z', BT/Z or ST/10
when:
N is the average yarn number,
B is the breadth (width) of the fabric in centimeters,
Y is the meters (linear) of the fabric per kilogram,
T is the total single yarns per square centimeter,
S is the square meters of fabric per kilogram,
Z is the grams per linear meter of fabric, and
Z' is the grams per square meter of fabric.
Fractions in the resulting "number" shall be disregarded.
(b) Unless the context otherwise requires, provisions relating to one or more weaves embrace only those fabrics which (excluding selvage) are wholly of the specified weave or weaves, including combinations exclusively thereof.
4.  For the purposes of heading 5208 and 5209, the term "certified hand-loomed fabrics" means fabrics made on a hand loom (i.e., a nonpower-driven loom) by a cottage industry and which prior to exportation have been certified by an official of a government agency of the country where the fabrics were produced to have been so made.
5. The aggregate quantity of cotton, not carded or combed, the product of any country or area including the United States, having a staple length under 28.575 mm (1-1/8 inches) (except harsh or rough cotton, having a staple length under 19.05 mm (3/4 inch)), entered under subheading 5201.00.14 during the 12-month period from September 20 in any year through September 19, inclusive, shall not exceed 20,207.05 metric tons (articles the product of Mexico shall not be permitted or included in the aforementioned quantitative limitation and no such articles shall be classifiable therein).
Of the quantitative limitations provided for in this note, the countries listed below shall have access to not less than the quantities specified below:
 
Quantity (kg)
Argentina
2,360
Brazil
280,648
British East Africa
1,016
British West Africa (except Nigeria and Ghana)
7,259
British West Indies (except Barbados, Bermuda,Jamaica, Trinidad, Tobago)
9,671
China
 621,780
Colombia
56
Ecuador
  4,233
Egypt & Sudan (aggregate)
 355,532
Haiti
107
Honduras
341
India & Pakistan (aggregate)
 908,764
Indonesia & Netherlands New Guinea (aggregate)
32,381
Iraq
88
Nigeria
2,438
Paraguay
395
Peru
112,469
Armenia, Azerbaijan, Belarus, Estonia, Georgia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Latvia, Lithuania, Moldova, Russia, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Ukraine and Uzbekistan (aggregate)
215,512
Other than as provided for in the country allocations above, articles the product of countries or areas who are not members of the World Trade Organization shall not be permitted or included in the quantitative limitations set forth in this note.
6. The aggregate quantity of harsh or rough cotton, not carded or combed, the product of any country or area including the United States, having a staple length of 29.36875 mm (1-5/32 inches) or more but under 34.925 mm (1-3/8 inches) and white in color (except cotton of perished staple, grabbots and cotton pickings), entered under subheading 5201.00.24 during the 12-month period from August 1 in any year through July 31, inclusive, shall not exceed 1,400.0 metric tons (articles the product of Mexico shall not be permitted or included in the aforementioned quantitative limitation and no such articles shall be classifiable therein).
Articles the product of countries or areas who are not members of the World Trade Organization shall not be permitted or included in the quantitative limitations set forth in this note.
7. The aggregate quantity of cotton, not carded or combed, the product of any country or area including the United States, having a staple length of 28.575 mm (1-1/8 inches) or more but under 34.925 mm (1-3/8 inches) (except harsh or rough cotton, not carded or combed, having a staple length of 29.36875 mm (1-5/32 inches) or more and white in color) but including cotton of perished staple, grabbots and cotton pickings, entered under subheading 5201.00.34 during the 12-month period from August 1 in any year through July 31, inclusive, shall not exceed 11,500.0 metric tons (articles the product of Mexico shall not be permitted or included in the aforementioned quantitative limitation and no such articles shall be classifiable therein).
Articles the product of countries or areas who are not members of the World Trade Organization shall not be permitted or included in the quantitative limitations set forth in this note.
8. The aggregate quantity of cotton, not carded or combed, the product of any country or area including the United States, having a staple length of 34.925 mm (1-3/8 inches) or more, entered under subheading 5201.00.60 during the 12-month period from August 1 in any year through July 31, inclusive, shall not exceed 40,100.0 metric tons (articles the product of Mexico shall not be permitted or included in the aforementioned quantitative limitation and no such articles shall be classifiable therein).
Articles the product of countries or areas who are not members of the World Trade Organization shall not be permitted or included in the quantitative limitations set forth in this note.
9. The aggregate quantity of card strips made from cotton having a staple length under 30.1625 mm (1-3/16 inches), and lap waste, sliver waste and roving waste of cotton, all the foregoing the product of any country or area including the United States, entered under subheading 5202.99.10 during the 12-month period from September 20 in any year through September 19, inclusive, shall not exceed 3,335,427 kilograms (articles the product of Mexico shall not be permitted or included in the aforementioned quantitative limitation and no such articles shall be classifiable therein).
Of the quantitative limitations provided for in this note, the countries listed below shall have access to not less than the quantities specified below:
 
Quantity (kg)
Belgium
5,830
Canada
108,721
China
7,857
Cuba
2,968
Egypt
3,689
France
34,385
Germany
11,540
Italy
3,215
India & Pakistan (aggregate)
31,582
Japan
154,917
Netherlands
10,317
Switzerland
6,711
United Kingdom
653,695
Other than as provided for in the country allocations above, articles the product of countries or areas who are not members of the World Trade Organization shall not be permitted or included in the quantitative limitations set forth in this note.
10. The aggregate quantity of fibers of cotton processed but not spun, entered under subheading 5203.00.10 during the 12-month period from September 11 in any year through September 10, inclusive, shall not exceed 2,500 kilograms (articles the product of Mexico shall not be permitted or included in the aforementioned quantitative limitation and no such articles shall be classifiable therein).
Articles the product of countries or areas who are not members of the World Trade Organization shall not be permitted or included in the quantitative limitations set forth in this note.
Statistical Note
1. For the purposes of the woven fabrics of chapter 52:
(a)  The term "poplin or broadcloth" means plain weave fabrics, not of square construction, whether or not napped, but does not include the following types:
(i) Fabrics weighing not more than 200 grams per square meter, containing 33 or less warp ends and filling picks per square centimeter; and
(ii) Fabrics weighing more than 200 grams per square meter, of average yarn number 26 or lower number.
(b)  The term "sheeting" means plain weave fabrics, whether or not napped, of the following types:
(i) Fabrics weighing not more than 200 grams per square meter, of square construction, containing more than 33 warp ends and filling picks per square centimeter, of average yarn number 68 or lower number, but not including printcloth; and
(ii) Fabrics weighing more than 200 grams per square meter, but does not include:
(A) Fabrics of which the warp or filling consists of multiple (folded) or cabled yarns, of average yarn number 26 or lower number; and
(B) Fabrics of average yarn number 27 or higher number, not of square construction.
(c)  The term "cheesecloth" means plain weave fabrics, weighing not more than 200 grams per square meter, containing not more than 33 warp ends and filling picks per square centimeter, whether or not napped.
(d)  The term "printcloth" means plain weave fabrics, weighing not more than 200 grams per square meter, of average yarn numbers 43-68, containing more than 33 singles yarns per square centimeter and not containing multiple (folded) or cabled yarns, of square construction, not combed, whether or not napped.
(e)  The term "lawns, voiles or batistes" means plain weave fabrics, weighing not more than 200 grams per square meter, of average yarn number 69 or higher number, containing more than 33 warp ends and filling picks per square centimeter, of square construction, whether or not napped.
(f)  The term "sateens" means satin weave fabrics, whether or not napped.
(g)  The term "oxford cloth" means fabrics weighing not more than 200 grams per square meter, whether or not napped, woven as plain weave except that two or more warp ends are woven as one (taped warp). Oxford cloth is not to be classified as a plain weave fabric.
(h)  The term "duck" means fabrics weighing more than 200 grams per square meter, of average yarn number 26 or lower number, whether or not napped, of the following types:
(i) Plain weave, of which the warp or filling consists of multiple (folded) or cabled yarns; or
(ii) Woven as plain weave except that two or more warp ends are woven as one (taped warp), whether or not containing multiple (folded) or cabled yarns; this latter type of duck is not to be classified as a plain weave fabric.
(ij)  The term "square construction" means fabrics of the following types:
(i) Containing less than 79 warp ends and filling picks per square centimeter, of which the difference between the total count of warp ends per centimeter and the total count of filling picks per centimeter is less than 11; or
(ii) Containing 79 or more warp ends and filling picks per square centimeter, of which the total count of warp ends per centimeter and the total count of filling picks per centimeter are each less than 57 percent of the total count per square centimeter of such warp ends and filling picks.
(k)  The term "napped" means fabrics with a fuzzy, fibrous surface produced by scratching or pricking the surface so that some of the fibers are raised from the body of the yarn. Napped fabrics are not to be confused with pile fabrics. Outing and canton flannel, moleskin, etc., are typical fabrics with a nap.
(l)  The term "not combed" means fabrics wholly or in part of uncombed cotton, other vegetable textile fibers or wool or fine animal hair.
(m)  The term "combed" means fabrics containing cotton, other vegetable textile fibers or wool or fine animal hair, in which such fibers are combed, whether or not containing other fibers.
  (n)   The term "osnaburg" means plain woven fabrics of square construction, not combed, not napped, weighing more than 200 g/m2, of average yarn number 22 or lower and containing less than 28 warp ends and filling picks per centimeter.  
(o)  The term "blue denim" means fabrics of 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including broken twill, warp faced, the warp yarns of which are dyed blue and the weft yarns of which are unbleached, bleached, dyed grey or colored a lighter shade of blue than that of the warp yarns.
(p)  The term "discharge printed" fabrics refers to fabrics which have been:      
(i) Dyed, not tinted, a single uniform color other than white;
(ii) Further processed using a method whereby chlorine or other color-destroying chemicals are applied to discrete portions of the dyed fabric to bleach out or discharge the dye and printed in those discrete portions thereby yielding a different colored pattern on the previously dyed ground; and
(iii) Subjected to two or more of the following finishing operations: bleaching, shrinking, filling, napping, decating, permanent stiffening, weighting, permanent embossing or moireing.

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