CHAPTER 53
OTHER VEGETABLE TEXTILE FIBERS; PAPER YARN
      AND WOVEN FABRICS OF PAPER YARN   
XI
53-1
Statistical Note 
1. For the purposes of the woven fabrics of chapter 53:
(a) Unless the context otherwise requires, provisions relating to one or more weaves embrace only those fabrics which (excluding selvage) are wholly of the specified weave or weaves, including combinations exclusively thereof.
(b)  The term "poplin or broadcloth" means plain weave fabrics, not of square construction, whether or not napped, but does not include the following types:
(i) Fabrics weighing not more than 200 grams per square meter, containing 33 or less warp ends and filling picks per square centimeter; and
(ii) Fabrics weighing more than 200 grams per square meter, of average yarn number 26 or lower number.
(c)  The term "sheeting" means plain weave fabrics, whether or not napped, of the following types:
(i) Fabrics weighing not more than 200 grams per square meter, of square construction, containing more than 33 warp ends and filling picks per square centimeter, of average yarn number 68 or lower number, but not including printcloth; and
(ii) Fabrics weighing more than 200 grams per square meter, but does not include:
(A) Fabrics of which the warp or filling consists of multiple (folded) or cabled yarns, of average yarn number 26 or lower number; and
(B) Fabrics of average yarn number 27 or higher number, not of square construction.
(d)  The term "printcloth" means plain weave fabrics, weighing not more than 200 grams per square meter, of average yarn numbers 43-68, containing more than 33 singles yarns per square centimeter and not containing multiple (folded) or cabled yarns, of square construction, not combed, whether or not napped.
(e)  The term "square construction" means fabrics of the following types:
(i) Containing less than 79 warp ends and filling picks per square centimeter, of which the difference between the total count of warp ends per centimeter and the total count of filling picks per centimeter is less than 11; or
(ii) Containing 79 or more warp ends and filling picks per square centimeter, of which the total count of warp ends per centimeter and the total count of filling picks per centimeter are each less than 57 percent of the total count per square centimeter of such warp ends and filling picks.
(f)  The term "napped" means fabrics with a fuzzy, fibrous surface produced by scratching or pricking the surface so that some of the fibers are raised from the body of the yarn. Napped fabrics are not to be confused with pile fabrics. Outing and canton flannel, moleskin, etc., are typical fabrics with a nap.
(g)  The term "not combed" means fabrics wholly or in part of uncombed cotton, other vegetable textile fibers or wool or fine animal hair.
(h)  The term "combed" means fabrics containing cotton, other vegetable textile fibers or wool or fine animal hair, in which such fibers are combed, whether or not containing other fibers.
(ij)  The term " number ," as applied to woven fabrics of chapter 53, means the average yarn number of the yarns contained therein. In computing the average yarn number, the length of the yarn is considered to be equal to the distance covered by it in the fabric in the condition as imported, with all clipped yarn being measured as if continuous and with the count being taken of the total single yarns in the fabric including the single yarns in any multiple (folded) or cabled yarns. The weight shall be taken after any excessive sizing is removed by boiling or other suitable process. Any one of the following formulas can be used to determine the average yarn number--
N = BYT/1,000, 100T/Z', BT/Z or ST/10
when:
N is the average yarn number,
B is the breadth (width) of the fabric in centimeters,
Y is the meters (linear) of the fabric per kilogram,
T is the total single yarns per square centimeter,
S is the square meters of fabric per kilogram,
Z is the grams per linear meter of fabric, and
Z' is the grams per square meter of fabric.
Fractions in the resulting "number" shall be disregarded.

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