CHAPTER 55
    MAN-MADE STAPLE FIBERS   
XI
55-1
Note
1. Headings 5501 and 5502 apply only to man-made filament tow, consisting of parallel filaments of a uniform length equal to the length of the tow, meeting the following specifications:
(a) Length of tow exceeding 2 m;
(b) Twist less than 5 turns per meter;
(c) Measuring per filament less than 67 decitex;
(d) Synthetic filament tow only: the tow must be drawn, that is to say, be incapable of being stretched by more than 100 percent of its length; and
(e) Total measurement of tow more than 20,000 decitex.
Tow of a length not exceeding 2 m is to be classified in heading 5503 or 5504.
Additional U.S. Note
1. For the purposes of the woven fabrics of chapter 55, unless the context otherwise requires, provisions relating to one or more weaves embrace only those fabrics which (excluding selvage) are wholly of the specified weave or weaves, including combinations exclusively thereof.
  Statistical Notes
1. For the purposes of the woven fabrics of chapter 55:
(a)  The term "poplin or broadcloth" means plain weave fabrics, not of square construction, whether or not napped, but does not include the following types:
(i) Fabrics weighing not more than 170 grams per square meter, containing 33 or less warp ends and filling picks per square centimeter; and
(ii) Fabrics weighing more than 170 grams per square meter, of average yarn number 26 or lower number.
(b)  The term "sheeting" means plain weave fabrics, whether or not napped, of the following types:
(i) Fabrics weighing not more than 170 grams per square meter, of square construction, containing more than 33 warp ends and filling picks per square centimeter, of average yarn number 68 or lower number, but not including printcloth; and
(ii) Fabrics weighing more than 170 grams per square meter, but does not include:
(A) Fabrics of which the warp or filling consists of multiple (folded) or cabled yarns, of average yarn number 26 or lower number; and
(B) Fabrics of average yarn number 27 or higher number, not of square construction.
(c)  The term "printcloth" means plain weave fabrics, weighing not more than 170 grams per square meter, of average yarn numbers 43-68, containing more than 33 singles yarns per square centimeter and not containing multiple (folded) or cabled yarns, of square construction, whether or not napped, of the following types:
(i) Fabrics, not combed; and
(ii) Other fabrics, measuring less than 168 cm in width.
(d)  The term "cheesecloth" means plain weave fabrics, weighing not more than 170 grams per square meter, containing not more than 33 warp ends and filling picks per square centimeter, whether or not napped.
(e)  The term "lawns, voiles or batistes" means plain weave fabrics, weighing not more than 170 grams per square meter, of average yarn number 69 or higher number, consisting of more than 33 warp ends and filling picks per square centimeter, of square construction, whether or not napped.
(f)  The term "duck" means fabrics weighing more than 170 grams per square meter, of average yarn number 26 or lower number, whether or not napped, of the following types:
(i) Plain weave, of which the warp or filling consists of multiple (folded) or cabled yarns; or
(ii) Woven as plain weave except that two or more warp ends are woven as one (taped warp), whether or not containing multiple (folded) or cabled yarns; this latter type of duck is not to be classified as a plain weave fabric.
(g)  The term "oxford cloth" means fabrics weighing not more than 170 grams per square meter, whether or not napped, woven as plain weave except that two or more warp ends are woven as one (taped warp). Oxford cloth is not to be classified as a plain weave fabric.
(h)  The term "blue denim" means fabrics weighing more than 170 grams per square meter, of 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including broken twill, warp faced, the warp yarns of which are dyed blue and the weft yarns of which are unbleached, bleached, dyed grey or colored a lighter shade of blue than that of the warp yarns.
(ij)  The term "square construction" means fabrics of the following types:
(i) Containing less than 79 warp ends and filling picks per square centimeter, of which the difference between the total count of warp ends per centimeter and the total count of filling picks per centimeter is less than 11; or
(ii) Containing 79 or more warp ends and filling picks per square centimeter, of which the total count of warp ends per centimeter and the total count of filling picks per centimeter are each less than 57 percent of the total count per square centimeter of such warp ends and filling picks.
(k)  The term "napped" means fabrics with a fuzzy, fibrous surface produced by scratching or pricking the surface so that some of the fibers are raised from the body of the yarn. Napped fabrics are not to be confused with pile fabrics. Outing and canton flannel, moleskin, etc., are typical fabrics with a nap.
(l)  The term "not combed" means fabrics in part of uncombed cotton, other vegetable textile fibers or wool or fine animal hair.
(m)  The term "combed" means fabrics containing cotton, other vegetable textile fibers or wool or fine animal hair, in which such fibers are combed.
(n)  The term " number ," as applied to woven fabrics of man-made fibers, means the average yarn number of the yarns contained therein. In computing the average yarn number, the length of the yarn is considered to be equal to the distance covered by it in the fabric in the condition as imported, with all clipped yarn being measured as if continuous and with the count being taken of the total single yarns in the fabric including the single yarns in any multiple (folded) or cabled yarns. The weight shall be taken after any excessive sizing is removed by boiling or other suitable process. Any one of the following formulas can be used to determine the average yarn number--
N = BYT/1000, 100T/Z', BT/Z or ST/10
when:
N is the average yarn number,
B is the breadth (width) of the fabric in centimeters,
Y is the meters (linear) of the fabric per kilogram,
T is the total single yarns per square centimeter,
S is the square meters of fabric per kilogram,
Z is the grams per linear meter of fabric, and
Z' is the grams per square meter of fabric.
Fractions in the resulting "number" shall be disregarded.
2.  The term "discharge printed" fabrics refers to fabrics which have been:
(a) Dyed, not tinted, a single uniform color other than white;
(b) Further processed using a method whereby chlorine or other color-destroying chemicals are applied to discrete portions of the dyed fabric to bleach out or discharge the dye and printed in those discrete portions thereby yielding a different colored pattern on the previously dyed ground; and
(c) Subjected to two or more of the following finishing operations: bleaching, shrinking, filling, napping, decating, permanent stiffening, weighting, permanent embossing or moireing.

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