MAR-2-05 CO:R:C:V 733841 KG

Laura S. Plank, Esq.
Sears Roebuck and Co.
National Headquarters
Sears Tower
Department 766
Chicago, Illinois 60684

RE: Country of origin marking of imported men's polo style shirts; 19 CFR 12.130

Dear Ms. Plank:

This is in response to your letter of October 5, 1990, requesting a ruling on the country of origin of imported men's polo style shirts. A sample was submitted for examination.

FACTS:

Sears plans to import men's 65/35 poly/cotton short sleeve jersey knit polo style shirts. The shirts have a flat knit collar and cuff, rib knit band bottom and 4-button half placket. The production of the shirts will involve processing operations in two countries. The fabric will be made and cut into 8 garment components in Taiwan. The 8 garment components will then be sewn together into a finished shirt and packaged in China. About 81% of the processing cost of the garment will be attributable to the processing done in Taiwan and about 19% of the cost will be attributable to the processing in China. According to your submission, the assembly by sewing in China does not require tailoring or detail work, will require very little time and will not require highly skilled workers.

ISSUE:

What is the country of origin of the imported men's polo style shirt?

LAW AND ANALYSIS:

Section 304 of the Tariff Act of 1930, as amended (19 U.S.C. 1304), provides that, unless excepted, every article of foreign origin imported into the U.S. shall be marked in a conspicuous place as legibly, indelibly, and permanently as the nature of the article (or container) will permit, in such a manner as to indicate to the ultimate purchaser in the U.S. the English name of the country of origin of the article.

Section 12.130, Customs Regulations (19 CFR 12.130), sets forth the principles for making country of origin determinations for textile and textile products subject to section 204 of the Agricultural Act of 1956, as amended (7 U.S.C. 1854)"("section 204").

Pursuant to 19 CFR 12.130, the standard of substantial transformation governs the determination of the country of origin where textiles and textile products are processed in more than one country. The country of origin of textile products is deemed to be that foreign territory, country, or insular possession where the article last underwent a substantial transformation. Substantial transformation is said to occur when the article has been transformed into a new and different article of commerce by means of substantial manufacturing or processing operations.

In T.D. 85-38, published in the Federal Register on March 5, 1985, (50 FR 8714), which is the final rule document which established 19 CFR 12.130, there is a discussion of how the examples and the factors enumerated in the regulation are intended to operate. "Examples set forth in 19 CFR 12.130(e) are intended to give guidance to Customs officers and other interested parties. Obviously, the examples represent clear factual situations where the country of origin of the imported merchandise is easily ascertainable. The examples are illustrative of how Customs, given factual situations which fall within those examples, would rule after applying the criteria listed in 19 CFR 12.130(d). Any factual situation not squarely within those examples will be decided by Customs in accordance with the provisions of 19 CFR 12.130(b) and (d)." The factors to be applied in determining whether or not a manufacturing operation is substantial are set forth in 19 CFR 12.130(d).

The fabric for these shirts is made and cut in Taiwan. One of the examples enumerated is 19 CFR 12.130(e)(iii), which states that weaving, knitting or otherwise forming fabric is an example of a manufacturing or processing operation which would qualify under 19 CFR 12.130 as a substantial transformation. Further, Customs stated in T.D. 85-38 that "Cutting garment parts from fabric will result in a substantial transformation of the fabric. This is not to say, however, that the cut pieces will not undergo a later substantial transformation." Clearly, making poly/cotton fabric out of yarn or thread results in a new and different article of commerce. Further, the forming of the fabric and the cutting of the garment parts would qualify as a substantial manufacturing operation under 19 CFR 12.130. Therefore, the making of the fabric and cutting it into garment parts in Taiwan constitutes a substantial transformation. The second question presented is whether the garment parts undergo a later substantial transformation in China, where the parts are sewn together.

Assembly by sewing is considered in 19 CFR 12.130(e)(v) as usually resulting in a article being deemed a product of the country in which the sewing was done where the assembly is substantial such as the complete assembly and tailoring of all cut pieces of suit-type jackets, suits, and shirts. After considering all the comments received on the interim regulation regarding assembly by sewing, Customs concluded that "factors such as time, nature of the sewing operation, and the skill required to sew together a tailored garment should be considered in determining whether the merchandise was substantially transformed.... Where either less than a complete assembly of all the cut pieces of a garment is performed in one country, or the assembly is a relatively simple one, then Customs will rule on the particular factual situations as they arise, utilizing the criteria in section 12.130(d)." 50 Fed. Reg. 8,715 (March 5, 1985), T.D. 85-38.

As you are aware, Customs ruled in HQ 731036 (July 18, 1989), that the sewing together of 12 component parts into a men's polo style shirt in a second foreign country was not a substantial transformation under 19 CFR 12.130. The factors considered were the simplicity of the operations performed in the second country, and the lack of time and skill required to perform the operations. This case presents similar processing performed in the second foreign country. Further, in this case there are only 8 components as compared to 12 components in HQ 731036 and 81% of the value of the finished shirt is attributable to the processing performed in the second country. Based on these considerations, we conclude that the component parts do not undergo substantial manufacturing in China and therefore, are not substantially transformed in China. The country of origin of the shirts is Taiwan.

HOLDING:

Pursuant to 19 CFR 12.130, the country of origin of these men's polo style shirt for country of origin marking, quota, and duty purposes would be Taiwan.

The holding set forth above applies only to the specific factual situation and merchandise identified in the ruling request. This position is clearly set forth in section 177.9(b)(1), Customs Regulations (19 CFR 177.9(b)(1)). This section states that a ruling letter is issued on the assumption that all of the information furnished in connection with the ruling request and incorporated in the ruling letter, either directly, by reference, or by implication is accurate and complete in every material respect. Should it subsequently be determined that the information furnished is not complete and does not comply with 19 CFR 177.9(b)(1), the ruling will be subject to modification or revocation. In the event there is a change in the facts previously furnished this may affect the determination of country of origin. Accordingly, it is recommended that a new ruling request be submitted in accordance with section 177.2. Customs Regulations (19 CFR 177.2).

Sincerely,

John Durant
Director,
Commercial Rulings Division