CLA-2 CO:R:C:T 950887 SK

Mr. John E. Brady
Vice President
Western Overseas Corporation
1855 Coronado Avenue
Long Beach, CA 90804

RE: Country of Origin of brassieres; fabric sourced in Malaysia, Hong Kong, United States and Philippines; piece goods cut in Philippines; assembly in Indonesia and Pakistan; inspection, sorting and packaging in Foreign Trade Zone; 19 CFR 12.130; mere assembly not substantial transformation

Dear Mr. Brady:

This is in response to your letter of December 18, 1991, on behalf of your client, Exquisite Form Industries, Inc. (EFI), requesting the country of origin and classification of brassieres.

FACTS:

The articles at issue, Styles 548 and 532, are brassieres. The manufacturing of these goods takes place in several different countries. The fabric for the articles is sourced in Malaysia, Hong Kong, the United States and the Philippines. The piece goods are cut in the Philippines and then shipped with a supply of hooks, clips, slides and elastic of U.S. origin to Indonesia or Pakistan for assembly. The finished articles are then sent to a Foreign Trade Zone in Ontario, California to be sorted, inspected and packaged.

The cutting times involved with Styles 548 and 532 are approximately 26 minutes and 37 minutes respectively. The sewing and assembly times involved with Style 548 and 532 are approximately 273 minutes and 217 minutes respectively.

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A cost breakdown was submitted to this office which provides the cost differential between the "body" (i.e., material) of the brassiere and the "accessories" of the article (i.e., the polyflex bones, elastic, plastic ring and slide, etc...). The submitted cost breakdown does not provide the value added to the articles by the assembly process.

ISSUE:

What is the tariff classification and country of origin for the subject merchandise?

LAW AND ANALYSIS:

Classification of merchandise under the Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States Annotated (HTSUSA), is in accordance with the General Rules of Interpretation (GRI's), taken in order. GRI 1 provides that classification shall be determined according to the terms of the headings and any relative section or chapter notes.

The articles at issue are brassieres. Heading 6212, HTSUSA, provides for brassieres, girdles, corsets, braces, suspenders, garters and similar articles. Accordingly, classification of the subject merchandise is proper under this heading.

Section 12.130(b) of the Customs Regulations (19 CFR 12.130(b)) provides that a textile product that is processed in more than one country or territory shall be a product of that country or territory where it last underwent a substantial transformation. Your attention is directed to Section 12.130(e)(v) of the Customs Regulations which states that an article will usually have undergone a substantial transformation (change in country of origin) if it has undergone a substantial assembly of all cut pieces into a completed garment.

You did not submit a detailed account of the assembly process these articles undergo in Indonesia or Pakistan. You did submit cutting and sewing minutes for the two styles, as well as cost sheets detailing the cost of the material as compared with the cost of the garments' accessories. These figures, however, do no more than to show that the cost of the fabric is more than the cost of the accessories and the assembly process is lengthier than the cutting process. These factors are not determinative of whether a substantial transformation has occurred.

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Customs has long held that the mere assembly of goods, entailing simple combining operations, trimming or joining together by sewing, is not enough to substantially transform the components of an article into a new and different article of commerce. See Headquarters Ruling Letter (HRL) 082747, dated February 23, 1989, in which Customs determined that the assembly of jeans was not a substantial transformation and HRL 082787, dated March 9, 1989, which reached a similar conclusion with regard to a jogging suit.

The assembly process in Indonesia or Pakistan involves the sewing together of piece goods sent from the Philippines and is not significant enough to constitute a substantial transformation as defined by the regulations set forth supra. The country of origin of these articles is the Philippines as that is where the piece goods were cut and where the articles last underwent a substantial transformation.

HOLDING:

The subject merchandise is classifiable under heading 6212, HTSUSA, which provides for brassieres, girdles, corsets, braces, suspenders, garters and similar articles and parts thereof, whether or not knitted or crocheted. If the articles contain lace, net or embroidery, they are properly classifiable under subheading 6212.10.1020, HTSUSA, which provides for, inter alia, brassieres of man-made fibers and the applicable rate of duty is 32% ad valorem. If the articles do not contain lace, net or embroidery, they are classifiable under subheading 6212.10.2020, HTSUSA, which provides for other brassieres of man-made fibers and the applicable rate of duty is 18% ad valorem. In both subheadings the applicable textile category is 649.

The country of origin of the subject merchandise is the Philippines.

The manner in which the visa/quota category may affect the admissibility of these goods in a Foreign Trade Zone has not been addressed in this ruling. Should you have questions regarding this issue, please contact the U.S. Customs Headquarters Entry Rulings Branch at 1301 Constitution Avenue, N.W., Washington D.C. 20229.

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The designated textile and apparel category may be subdivided into parts. If so, visa and quota requirements applicable to the subject merchandise may be affected. Since part categories are the result of international bilateral agreements which are subject to frequent renegotiations and changes, to obtain the most current information available, we suggest that your client check, close to the time of shipment, the Status Report on Current Import Quotas (Restraint Levels), an internal issuance of the U.S. Customs Service, which is updated weekly and is available at your local Customs office.

Due to the changeable nature of the statistical annotation (the ninth and tenth digits of the classification), and the restraint (quota/visa) categories, your client should contact its local Customs office prior to importing the merchandise to determine the current applicability of any import restraints or requirements.

Sincerely,

John Durant, Director
Commercial Rulings Division