CLA-2 CO:R:C:T 953296 SK

TARIFF NO'S: 6302.31.1020; 6302.31.1040; 6302.32.1020;
6302.32.1040

John M. Peterson
Neville, Peterson & Williams
39 Broadway
New York, N.Y. 10006

RE: Classification of pillowcase and flat sheet; bed linens; whether certain decorative stitching is deemed embroidery for classification purposes; hemstitch; fagot stitch; "drawn work"; Fairchild's Dictionary of Textiles, 6th Edition; 6302.31.1020; 6302.31.1040; 6302.32.1020; 6302.32.1040, HTSUSA.

Dear Mr. Peterson:

This is in response to your letter of December 29, 1992, on behalf of your client, Natural Feather & Textiles Inc., requesting a binding classification ruling for two items: a pillowcase and a flat sheet imported from China. A sample of the pillowcase was submitted for our review.

FACTS:

The pillowcase and flat sheet will be made from either 100 percent cotton woven fabric or 100 percent man-made fiber woven fabric. The pillowcase measures approximately 20-1/8 inches by 30-1/2 inches and features a hem at the open end which is sewn down with a broad circular stitch referred to in your submission as a "classic hemstitch"; this stitch is also known as a "fagot stitch" or as "drawn work." The sheet features the same stitch work on the top end of the hem.

ISSUE:

Whether the pillowcase and flat sheet at issue are classifiable as "embroidered" bed linen under heading 6302, HTSUSA?

- 2 -

LAW AND ANALYSIS:

Classification of merchandise under the Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States Annotated (HTSUSA) is in accordance with the General Rules of Interpretation (GRI's), taken in order. GRI 1 provides that classification shall be determined according to the terms of the headings and any relative section or chapter notes.

Heading 6302, HTSUSA, provides for, inter alia, bed linen. Accordingly, the pillowcase and flat sheet at issue are properly classifiable within this heading of the nomenclature. The more specific issue, is whether the subject merchandise is deemed embroidered for purposes of classification at the eight-digit level within heading 6302, HTSUSA.

In your submission you state that the subject merchandise (if imported in cotton) is classifiable under subheadings 6302.31.2020 and 6302.31.2040, HTSUSA, as non-embroidered bed linens. In support of this contention, you assert that the hemstitch used in the manufacture of these items serves primarily a functional purpose and therefore classification should not be based on the hemstitch component of the subject merchandise as it is not ornamental and therefore not embroidery. You cite Headquarters Ruling Letter (HRL) 084964, dated September 19, 1989, in which Customs determined that a handkerchief with a small triangle of non-contrasting stitching was deemed not embroidered for tariff purposes because "no ornamental effect" was created.

We disagree that the hemstitch used in the manufacture of the submitted samples is primarily utilitarian in nature. The joining together of the component parts of the articles at issue could have been accomplished using a less complicated and less costly sewing method. We are unable to accept the proposition that the manufacturer chose to use a decorative stitch, which necessitates greater cost in time and effort, primarily to piece together the two sections of the subject merchandise when this could be accomplished with a simple, non-decorative stitch. A hemstitch was used precisely because it is primarily ornamental in nature and may very well provide the motivating impetus for the purchase of this particular pillowcase and flat sheet. Any simple seam can join a hem to another piece of fabric; the decorative hemstitch was specifically used in this instance because of the visual effect it creates and it is therefore properly deemed "ornamental" in nature.

In further support of your contention that the bed linens at issue are not embroidered, you cite several Customs rulings which

- 3 -

were issued under the Tariff Schedules of the United States Annotated (TSUSA) in which this office held that stitching which affixes one portion of a textile article to another is not ornamental for classification purposes. (See, e.g. HRL 059229, dated July 17, 1989, in which Customs determined that the stitching which secures a pocket to trousers is not ornamental; and HRL 051618, dated July 7, 1978, in which this office held that overlock stitching on shirt patches, which connects one patch to another, is primarily functional and not ornamental and therefore not taken into consideration for classification purposes).

TSUSA cases are not precedential for purposes of classification under the HTSUSA. While it is true that Customs may consider TSUSA rulings when classifying merchandise under the HTSUSA, we are under no obligation to do so. Moreover, reference to TSUSA decisions is only proper when those rulings have direct relevance to the issue currently under review under the HTSUSA. That is not the case here. The TSUSA cases you cite analyze the role of stitching used in the affixation of pockets to trousers and the piecing together of shirt patches. This type of stitching is utilitarian in nature and serves a different purpose, and creates a very different visual effect, from the stitch work presently under consideration. As stated above, the hemstitch used in the present case is primarily decorative and HRL's 059229 and 051618 provide no guidance in this instance.

You state that as the hemstitch on the submitted samples is in a non-contrasting color, it does not visually enhance the bed linen and is not decorative or ornamental in nature and therefore does not meet the definition of embroidery as set forth in the Explanatory Notes (EN) to heading 5810, HTSUSA, which state, "embroidery is obtained by working with embroidering threads on a pre-existing ground of ... woven fabric... in order to produce an ornamental effect on that ground" [emphasis added]. We note that there is no requirement that stitch work be done in contrasting colors from the ground fabric in order for it to be deemed decorative or visually enhancing. The hemstitch employed in the instant case is non-contrasting, yet it serves to create an elegant, monochromatic effect that does "visually enhance" the bed linen it adorns. Consequently, the fact that non-contrasting stitching is used on the subject merchandise will not preclude it from being classified as embroidered articles of bed linen. We further note that the fact that the amount of embroidery on these articles is rather small is no bar to classification under subheadings 6302.31.1020 and 6302.31.1040, HTSUSA, as these provisions merely require that "any" embroidery be present.

- 4 -

Lastly, there is support in the language of the tariff schedule that the type of stitch work used in the manufacture of these articles is deemed embroidery for classification purposes. The EN to heading 5810, HTSUSA, specifically cite "drawn thread work" as an example of embroidery. Fairchild's Dictionary of Textiles, 6th edition, defines "hemstitching" as an "ornamental decoration achieved by drawing out parallel threads at the inner edges of a hem and drawing together in groups the cross threads by successive stitches." "Fagoting" is described as "an effect in fabric produced by drawing a number of threads and tying small bunches of the remaining threads in the center." "Drawn work" is defined as "a method of decorating fabrics by drawing out certain threads and fastening the remaining threads with fancy stitches into patterns." The ornamental stitch work performed on the pillowcase and flat sheet at issue is representative of a type of drawn work and is therefore specifically provided for in the EN to heading 5810, HTSUSA, as a form of embroidery. Accordingly, the articles at issue are properly classifiable as embroidered bed linen under subheading 6302.31.1020 and 6302.31.2040, HTSUSA.

HOLDING:

If the pillowcase and flat sheet are made of 100 percent woven cotton, classification is as follows:

* pillowcase: classifiable under subheading 6302.31.1020, HTSUSA, which provides for bed linen, table linen, toilet linen and kitchen linen: other bed linen: of cotton: containing any embroidery, lace, braid, edging, trimming, piping or applique work... pillowcases, other than bolster cases: not napped. The rate of duty is 23.8 percent ad valorem and the textile quota category is 360.

* flat sheet: classifiable under subheading 6302.31.1040, HTSUSA, which provides for bed linen, table linen, toilet linen and kitchen linen: other bed linen: of cotton: containing any embroidery, lace, braid, edging, trimming, piping or applique work... sheets: not napped. The rate of duty is 23.8 percent ad valorem and the textile quota category is 361.

If the pillowcase and flat sheet are made of man-made fibers, classification is as follows:

* pillowcase: classifiable under subheading 6302.32.1020, HTSUSA, which provides for bed linen, table linen, toilet linen and kitchen linen: other bed linen: of man-made fibers: containing any embroidery, lace, braid, edging, trimming, piping or applique work... pillowcases, other than bolster cases: not napped. The rate of duty is 17 percent ad valorem and the textile quota category is 360.

- 5 -

* flat sheet: classifiable under subheading 6302.32.1040, HTSUSA, which provides for bed linen, table linen, toilet linen and kitchen linen: other bed linen: of man-made fibers: containing any embroidery, lace, braid, edging, trimming, piping or applique work... sheets: not napped. The rate of duty is 17 percent ad valorem and the textile quota category is 360.

Due to the changeable nature of the statistical annotation (the ninth and tenth digits of the classification) and the restraint (quota/visa) categories, your client should contact his local Customs office prior to importation of this merchandise to determine the current status of any import restraints or requirements.

The designated textile and apparel category may be subdivided into parts. If so, the visa and quota requirements applicable to the subject merchandise may be affected. Since part categories are the result of international bilateral agreements which are subject to frequent renegotiations and changes, to obtain the most current information available we suggest your client check, close to the time of shipment, the Status Report on Current Import Quotas (Restraint levels), an internal issuance of the U.S. Customs Service which is updated weekly and is available for inspection at the local Customs office.

Sincerely,

John Durant, Director
Commercial Rulings Divisiony